How to take blouse measurements: the 14 numbers a tailor needs
Step-by-step blouse measurement guide for tailors — neck, shoulder, bust, apex, armhole, sleeve and length in inches, plus the mistakes that cause refits.
VirtueTailor4 min read
The short answer
A well-fitting saree blouse needs about fourteen measurements: four for the neck, shoulder width, upper chest, bust, shoulder-to-apex, apex-to-apex, the underbust round, armhole, upper arm, sleeve length, sleeve opening and blouse length. Take them over a well-fitting bra, read the tape to the nearest quarter inch, and write every number against the customer's name so the next blouse starts from them.
The blouse came back too tight
Most refits are not stitching mistakes. They are one missed number — the apex point, a back neck written as a front neck, a 38 written as 83 — found only after the cloth is cut.
One chart, the same order every time
- Measure in a fixed order, top to bottom
- Quarter-inch steps, never guesses
- Neck front and back kept apart
- Apex numbers for a clean dart
- Every number saved per customer
- A sanity check before anything is cut
Before you start
- Ask the customer to wear the bra she will wear under the blouse. Bust and apex change with it.
- Use a soft cloth tape and keep it flat, not twisted, snug but not pulling.
- Ask her to stand straight with arms relaxed and breathe normally.
- If she has a blouse that fits well, take it too. It is the best check you have on the numbers.
The blouse measurement chart
| Measurement | Where to take it |
|---|---|
| Front neck depth | From the shoulder point beside the neck, straight down to where the front neck should end. |
| Back neck depth | Same, at the back. Kept separate from the front — they are rarely equal. |
| Front neck width | Across the front, between the two points where the neckline sits on the shoulders. |
| Back neck width | Across the back, the same way. |
| Shoulder width | From one shoulder bone to the other, across the back. |
| Upper chest round | Around the body just under the arms, above the bust. |
| Bust round | Around the fullest part of the bust, tape level all the way round. |
| Shoulder to apex | From the shoulder point down to the bust point. This places the dart. |
| Apex to apex | Straight across between the two bust points. |
| Underbust round | Around the body just under the bust, where the blouse ends. |
| Armhole round | Around the arm where it joins the shoulder, loosely. |
| Upper arm round | Around the fullest part of the upper arm. |
| Sleeve length | From the shoulder point down to where the sleeve should end. |
| Blouse length | From the shoulder point beside the neck down to the blouse hem, over the bust. |
Measure in this order
Neck and shoulder
Front and back neck depth and width, then shoulder width. Ask how deep she wants each neck, and write the design down with the number.
Chest and bust
Upper chest, bust and underbust rounds, with the tape level at the back.
Apex
Shoulder to apex and apex to apex. Without these the dart lands in the wrong place, however right the bust round is.
Sleeve
Armhole, upper arm, sleeve length and sleeve opening.
Length
Blouse length last, from the neck-side shoulder point over the bust.
Mistakes that cause refits
- Swapped digits. A 38 written as 83 is easy on paper. Software that knows the range a bust can take stops it at the counter.
- One neck number for front and back. Deep backs are common; write them apart.
- Skipping the apex. The blouse fits the round but wrinkles at the bust.
- Measuring over a thick kurti. Every round comes out large.
- Not saving the numbers. The next order starts from a fresh tape, and a different person reads it differently.
Keep the numbers, not just the blouse
In VirtueTailor the blouse chart is already set up with these fields. The counter types numbers in inches in quarter-inch steps, and each field has a range a real body takes, so a misread tape is caught before the cloth is cut. On her next order the shop uses her last measurements in one tap, and can still change a number if she has changed.
If she brings a blouse to copy instead of being measured, the order records that, and the blouse is listed as something to give back with the finished one. Read more about keeping a digital measurement book.
Questions
How many measurements are needed for a blouse?
About fourteen for a fitted saree blouse: front and back neck depth and width, shoulder, upper chest, bust, shoulder to apex, apex to apex, underbust, armhole, upper arm, sleeve length and blouse length, plus the sleeve opening when there is a sleeve.
What is the apex measurement in a blouse?
Two numbers: the distance from the shoulder point down to the bust point, and the distance between the two bust points. They decide where the darts sit, which is what makes a blouse fit at the bust.
Should blouse measurements be taken in inches or centimetres?
Whichever the shop works in. Most Indian tailors use inches in quarter-inch steps. VirtueTailor lets the shop type inches and keeps the exact value, so the cutting table reads the same number.
Can I take measurements from an old blouse?
Yes, and many customers prefer it. Lay the blouse flat and measure it, or keep it as the fitting reference. Make sure it goes back to her with the new blouse.
Try it in your own shop
Free to start. Our team will help you bring your customers and measurements in.